Walnut husk dye bath |
Creating a dye bath from walnut husks is relatively easy. First, soak a bunch of unhulled walnuts in water, for as long as you like. Some sources say an hour, some say a day, some say a week, some say until you get around to dyeing with them. The longer they set, the funkier the smell, but it, and the mold, do not matter.
Initial dip |
When you are ready to dye, simmer the nuts for an hour. Then add yarn, mordanted or unmordanted, and simmer for an hour. Then let sit overnight.
Gross! |
If you want, repeat the dye process. Apply modifiers. Rinse. Hang to dry.
First samples |
I worked with 16 one-ounce yarn samples of Lambs Price worsted. Each one was treated differently. Half were mordanted with alum and cream of tartar, half were not. Half the mordanted and half the unmordanted went through the dye bath once, the rest went twice. Some were not modified, some were modified in vinegar, some in an iron afterbath, some in liquid from wood ash.
Litmus paper test |
Because previous attempts to modify dyed yarn did not seem to do anything, I tested the pH of the modifiers with litmus, to make sure they were really acid, neutral, and alkaline. (My dad was a chemist - can you tell?)
Dyed yarn does not match colors in book |
The yarn colors are supposed to match those four on the left in the picture above. To my untrained eye, they are not even close. Am I doing something wrong? Or is the book (Wild Colors) lying or are its examples supposed to be for illustrative purposes only?
Alum & cream of tartar mordant One dye bath Modifiers: none, acid, iron, alkaline |
No mordant Two dye baths Modifiers: none, acid, iron, alkaline |
Alum & cream of tartar mordant Two dye baths Modifiers: none, acid, iron, alkaline |
No mordant One dye bath Modifiers: none, acid, iron, alkaline |
One dye bath |
Two dye baths |
Altogether now |
Even though I enjoy the process, it is a lot of work to go through to get such similar shades of brown, me thinks. What think you?
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