Tuesday, September 01, 2026

Dyeing with purple basil

It's funny how the color of a dye plant may or may not be reflected in the dye bath, and the color of the dye bath may or may not match the dyed yarn. The latter is so true for purple basil. The dye bath was, well, purple, while the yarn turned out green, or with undertones of green after being modified.


Day 1:
The dye bath: I used 900g of plant material, three whole plants, which is WAY more than necessary. (Note to self: shake off bugs *before* bringing plants into house.) After roughly chopping the plant material, I added it to three gallons of water and heated the pot to around 175 degrees. I maintained the temperature between 160 and 180 for an hour, then let dye bath cool overnight.

Meanwhile, I applied a cool alum mordant on 200g of Cascade 220 yarn - 4 100-yard skeins, 2 mini skeins - using 10% alum by weight of fiber (WOF), as described in Wild Color.

Day 2:
After straining the dye material from the bath, I add the (rinsed, wet) yarn, heated the pot to 170-180, and held it there for one hour. I then removed the yarn and divided the dye bath into five containers for my experiments in modifying.
  • One container - no modifier; removed one mini skein, left the other mini in the unmodified dye bath overnight to see how much darker it might get.
  • One container - ammonia modifier for one 100-yard skein (a small glug); tested the pH to confirm.
  • One container - vinegar modifier for one 100-yard skein (two healthy glugs); tested the pH after one glug, but a little off, hence the second glug.
  • One container - iron modifier for one 100-yard skein (half tsp?)
  • One container - chrome (was supposed to be copper but I grabbed the wrong container) modifier for one 100-yard skein, loose crystals in bag (1 T?)

I let them all set for "a while" (less than an hour), then rinsed and hung to dry.

Day 3:
I rinsed remaining mini skein and hung it to dry.

A few days later, I washed all the skeins with Eculen, then hung them to dry again.

And here are the results:


No modifier

Vinegar

Ammonia

Iron

Chrome

No modifier, long soak


I just love, love, love these colors. Now I am wishing I hadn't used all my plants at one time. I guess I'll just have to grow some more next year and try again.